Racing to the Azul Cascadas

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We ran into the rest of the group the next morning, Upala isn’t a very big town. We set our destination as some waterfalls nearby, and set off on our route of unconventional transport yet again, walking as we saw them board a bus and roll away.

This time, though, it was a race. We knew it. They knew it.

Things were looking pretty dreary for a bit on our end. For one, we weren’t entirely sure where these mystical waterfalls were, and for another, it seemed like no one was out and about on rainy days — or at least, the ones who were didn’t want soggy hitch-hikers soaking their seats.

We eventually made it beyond the turn off point up the mountain. So we had to hitch back, and then forth again. Not everyone knew where these azul waterfalls were, so they’d take us to the turn off of where they were driving, cool with the company, and we’d not really have any clue how far off we were.

The rain stopped, and we made it off the main road. The azul waterfalls were up this mountain, we were told, we just had to follow the road. And so we began.

The roads had been fairly flat before, but after a few kilometers the slope of this one seemed to increase with every step. We walked up, and up. And up.

Vehicles were scarce on this road, and when a pick-up truck did happen to drive by, it did not stop. We reached a point that hurt just looking at it, looking straight ahead would mean looking at the road’s incline in front of your face – that’s how steep it was. And finally, someone stopped for us. We got in the back of the truck. These guys were booking it, too.

At one of the steepest parts, we see a group of people off to the left of us — it’s the rest ofour group! Jeff starts running up the mountain after the pick-up truck. So close! We ride onwards.

Not to endorse schadenfreude, but Mike and I were pleased with our timing for this one. If we had taken the bus directly to the bottom of the mountain, we would still be clawing upward, rather than cruising up to the finish.

We made it, we won, we wondered through the rainforest. We zigzagged bridges of pure blue water, and hiked up to the azul cascada. Natural minerals cause the blue color of the water.

The other group finally made it, too, and we relaxed in the natural hot springs. I jumped from the cool water to the warm, and reverse, to get the full spectrum of experience from this magical river. Mmm, rejuvenating.

Multimedia

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Photo Stories:

Tacheles Artist: Txus Parras
http://www.jou.ufl.edu/people/faculty/jfreeman/Berlin2012/Rachel-J-publish_to_web/index.html

Jason Burrows

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7FK8h3E567E&feature=youtu.be

James Wesson

http://youtu.be/GBVoHHV4RHU

57th Annual Florida Forest Festival

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=seFy9HwzLt4

Cody Carnathan
 http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_edit?ns=1&feature=vm&video_id=pzHrokSlPUc

Upala, we love you

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The backs of pick-up trucks aren’t the most comfortable, but they’re fun. And provide an excellent view.This was the first time I’d ever hitchhiked. The folks who picked us up were probably doing it more out of curiosity than anything else.
Why the hell would two Americans be traveling this way?

My Spanish isn’t super sheik, but Mike’s was good enough to get us further along when someone did stop and ask.

We made the mistake of telling someone our destination was a town on the way to Upala, to break up the distance and make it seem less of a drag. He took us there. We got out and saw him turn right. Right down the road toward Upala.

It was a bit before another driver headed that direction with us.

As the sun set, we rode into Upala.

Una cerveca, por favor.

Hitchhiking through Costa Rica

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We made it to shore and took a smaller boat through a rainforest-enshrouded waterway into Costa Rica. The seven of us wandered around the village a bit debating where to wander next, eventually settling on Upala.

Mike and I decided we could get there without spending the córdoba on the bus fare. He took out his phone and took a picture of the map. We started walking.

A few kilometers down that road and another, we learned people won’t stop if you’re still walking. Turn toward them, and you’re more likely to get picked up.

Our backpacks were school-sized, the weight was in the water. The landscape was flat and dry. Sand, brush, heat. Crumbling street beneath our feet, clay-colored. The smell of sunscreen and sweating dripping, foreboding red and peeling skin. Wheels turned hope, but not always rest.

As dangerous as people say Nicaragua is, the real concern was hydration. We didn’t stock up once we decided to take an alternative form of transportation. The uncertainty in the timing of our arrival at the next town paralleled the uncertainly in the next time we’d see bottled water.

The road was deserted for kilometers.

News on the Water

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Beans, rice and plantains accompanied every meal, and every meal was good and cheap. Despite the warnings of the travel doctors, we ate the fruit.

We caught another boat ride at night-fall. It was a long journey headed toward Costa Rica, and there were benches inside with two TVs hanging down.

The news in Spanish told us Osama bin Laden was dead. We rolled on across a lake full of sharks.

Dirt-biking up a Volcano

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After a few minutes of instruction in Spanish for those of us who’d never ridden any two-wheeled motorized vehicle before, we were ready to head up a volcano on rented dirt bikes.

We rode as far up as we could and then hiked up to a waterfall. A family of wild horses blocked our trail back. There was no way around them, so I twirled bamboo and encouraged them down the path.

The ride up was steep and sketch, but not nearly as much as the ride down. We almost ate it at the bottom when we hit a mega-patch of sand, but my ballet days swooped into action and balance saved us.

We stayed at a hostel on the side of a volcano and hiked up and down into the crater of it the next morning.

(There might have been a part in there where the two with Marine Corps training left the group at dinner, took a wrong turn at a chain link fence in the dark, and got lost in the jungle a bit before backtracking and eventually finding the hostel…but the night creatures won’t disclose us.)