London Calling

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We arrived in Calais and discovered that the trains that would hypothetically usually take us to the ferry weren’t running anymore today. Whoops. A man in a suit came out and nicely called us a taxi, which we shared with two women heading into the city, so we didn’t have to pay the full 42 Euro, only 30, which we split.

We got to the ferry, bought tickets, and were seriously interrogated by British immigration. This woman was a bitch. We’re only staying in England for a day, but I had to dig through my back pack to get my returning flight ticket(from Berlin to US), and then she held it in her hand for about ten minutes saying “I can’t find the date on this.” The other woman eventually pointed out its obvious placement.

They asked about our school, what year we were, our ages, when we got to Europe, all that. They were more intense on Bailey, I had my hard-face on.

It didn’t help that we were the last in line. But some folks came up behind us and they passed us on. We went outside to a courtesy bus that was to take us to the ferry. It looked like this man and two women were unloading their entire apartment onto the bus, right there in the aisle where people are already standing because its so full. Their car had broken down, they said. They had to move it all this way. It was packaged terribly, as well. A framed picture, and a TV screen, all out in the open, no cover or protection. Lots of little things, lots of mini trips back and forth from cart to bus—the other folks crammed on the bus weren’t thrilled about the time it was taking, they were anxious to make it to the ferry and, most of them, make it home to England.

We made it, though, and went up to the deck and watched us leave the Calais port. Here we were, ferrying across the English Channel to Dover. I loved being by the water again, I feel comfortable near water.

We got a table by the window inside, and ate bread we’d saved from hostel breakfast this morning(hostel breakfast = bread.. that’s it.). Bailey went to change 40 Euro into pounds, and then I went to spend it.

“Keep calm and celebrate,” the bottle said—and we did, with beer and chocolate.

As the ship was pulling into port in Dover, I found myself, once again, surrounded by Englishmen (or so I thought…). How this happens, is usually it starts with two of them, but the more sentences exchanged, the more show up. There were eight of them, by the end of it. They were recommending cool places to check out in London, that sort of thing.

But the ship was in, so they headed to the stairs, I finished my beer and we strapped on our packs.

We went down a flight of stairs and out into where they keep the cars…we figured we probably shouldn’t be there, so we went down another flight, cars again. We went down a third flight and walked out, nearly right into the van of the guys we’d just met upstairs. It was a pretty big van, so I asked if they could give us a ride(you know, kind of joking but not really). They were headed to something North of London about 45 minutes…they said we could go with them then get a train from there back to London…but to get there would’ve taken 2 and a half hours, so it was a bit out of our way.

But the trucks in front were moving, so we had to decide something– we got in the van.

A few minutes of iPhone address-searching and all that, and they said they could drop us at Maidstone Station, where we could then catch a train into London, and to our final destination with Bailey’s relative whom she’s never met.

I told Bailey we should just hitchhike the rest of the way(now three countries I’ve hitchhiked in…Costa Rica being the first, Nicaragua the second…but that was last summer, and that was actually thumbs-out hitchhiking). I was half-joking.

There weren’t any instruments in the van so I asked why they were all traveling together. They live in England, but they’re all Italian. They’d gone to the Italy-Croatia match. It was a draw.

We were lucky, they’d started with 11, but three of them had flown back. We were a bit concerned about getting stopped by immigration, as there were now only eight guys, but two American girls in addition. But we passed through without a problem.

They sung a song they made for us, and Marcello even wrote down the lyrics for me. Its called the Blackburn song, and I recorded it on video.

We’re Backburn Rovers we are
supreme

We won’t Be Mastered By the
Burnley Bastards, we keep the
Blue flag flying high

forever ever we follow out team,
we Blackburn Rovers we are supreme

Come on Blackburn…

The rest of the ride to the station, they recommended all sorts to do in London, and told us to go to Liverpool, and also some places in Amsterdam. We made it to the station, and caught the 22:48 Train to London Victoria, where we’ll be arriving in half an hour. Then we switch to another train headed to Crystal Palace. We’d told Bailey’s relative, Deirdre, that we’d be getting there about seven…but Bailey called from the station to tell her we’d be arriving about 5 and a half hours later than expected.

 

Laptop battery dying.

London calling.

Adventure ensuing.

NUTELLA-BANANA CREPES (what Paris is -really- all about)

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Of the cities I’ve encountered, Paris comes closest to New York. Its huge, you get places by metro, lots of shops of fashion and sweets, and lots of tourists but more locals. In Paris though, everyone was so nice. We’d heard wretched things, that the French hate Americans, for example, and that they’ll be dicks to you if you try to speak English at them. On the contraire, anytime we asked for help in getting somewhere the people were very friendly and we had no problem at all.

We checked out of the Ambriot Hotel to  stay at a hostel for the next two nights. After we dropped our packs, we found a cute little place nearby, called “Miss Lunch” where we enjoyed delicious brie and meals I can’t pronounce the names of. Bailey got something with peppers, and I got something with pork. Delectable enough to mention. 

After a failed attempt at going to see the catacombs (they stop letting people in at 4…we got there at 4:09), we headed to Notre Dame. We noticed a sneaking line around the side of it and jumped in it, not exactly knowing what for. I ran around front and saw the masses pouring into the Cathedral, no line at all. But this line was to go to the top. Over 400 spiraling steps up.

After a bit, we made it to the front of the line. Luckily, Bailey and I were at the front of the group (they let in about twenty at a time) so we didn’t have to slug up the staircase at .4 kilometers per hour. Instead, we decided to run it. Yes, run up the 400 stone stairs.

And so we did…three-quarters of it at least. There was a landing a little after stair 320, and we had caught up to people from the previous group still making their way up. But it wasn’t long before we were at the second-to-highest level, with a gargoyle’s eye view of Paris.

We slipped through a wooden opening and up some more stairs, wooden this time, to the Belfry. I envied Quasimodo for the rafters above the bell he could climb all day.

We went back down and joined the queue to actually enter the cathedral. A few minutes after we were inside, an organ started playing. I whispered to Bailey, “I think mass is about to start, do you want to go?” She nodded, and we went to find seats. The priest’s voice echoed powerfully, and with a resonance I recognized of Catholic priests previously. The rhythm to the words was the same, though this mass was in French.

This was the first time I could recall attending mass in a Cathedral (the mass at the Vatican a week ago had taken place in front of St. Peter’s), and it was beautiful.

After mass, we caught a train to the Eiffel Tower. Or ‘iron asparagus’, as Bailey called it. Apparently, everyone hated it when it was put up, but decided to keep it up when they put it to use by adding a radio tower to the top of it.

Honestly, we weren’t about to wait in that line. Or pay 4.50 to hike up all those stairs. We’d done that, and on top of something a bit more aesthetically-pleasing and made up of a bit more than a hunk of metal. But I took pictures from below and we went to eat nearby.

Of course, everywhere close was bound to be expensive, but there was a slight deal on a starter, steak, and a plate of cheese or desert. I had to get the escargot, steak sirloin, and fromage. With a glass of wine, as well.

We only got tiny glasses though, because of the expense. We decided to go get a bottle someplace not that expensive and walk around. It grew dark, and we didn’t know the laws in Paris about open containers on the street. Bailey had a park in mind, but the only park we passed already had three packs of guys in it, we decided we needed our own turf. We wandered a bit, and found a pile of junk in front of this awesome piece of graffiti. We sat, and drank wine.

The next morning we awoke and went straight to the Catacombs. 6 million people buried in what used to be quarries. The bones were moved from other cemeteries (the Innocents one, mainly) due to health concerns. A spiral staircase down to these, as well.

A moist and musky labyrinth of bones awaited us down there. The tunnels were dimly lit, and the bones stacked to head- height, higher near the back. They checked our bags on our way out to make sure we didn’t steal any bones.  Honestly, I’m sure it would be the bee’s knees for some ‘goth’ high school kids, but to me, after the Bone church in Prague, it was rather boring. The sheer number of the dead people an eerie atmosphere is all it’s got going for it.

Back up on the street again, we bought crepes, a nutella-banana one for me, and then headed to the Louvre. We walked for hours, particularly in the Egypt section, but we walked all through.

Afterwards we caught a train to Sacre Coeur Basilique… which was on top of a huge hill where you could also see the extensive city of Paris. The weather was all gray though, so it wasn’t exceptionally pretty.

We returned to the hostel to make our flight reservations to Amsterdam and caught the Ukraine-France match. We finished our bottle of Bordeaux and went out for crepes, again. This time, I ventured a fromage jambon (cheese and ham) and it was actually quite good. By this point, neither of us could understand why we can’t find decent crepes in the U.S.. When we returned, the Sweden-English match was on (English 3 to 2).

We awoke early and caught a few trains out to Versailles, a gaudy mansion with surprising modern art pieces selectively placed around the palace. These I liked, but the repeated gold-only color scheme grew tiresome around room 23. It was raining, so we glimpsed the gardens before bailing back to pick up our bags and head to Gare de Nord to catch a train out of town.

We discovered, too late, that the Eurorail passes do, in fact, work from Paris to London. They were all full today though, so we’re headed to Calais now to catch a ferry across the English Channel, and then catch another train into London.

Au revoir!

We Lit the Fire

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Travel Journal Excerpt: Currently sitting in Au Rond Point, with a glass of red wine and awaiting a plate of fromage(assorted cheeses). Oh yes, and escargot.

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We arrived at Gare de Lyon this afternoon and(after scrambling around a bit searching for internet to rediscover the hotel we’d booked..) we took the metro to Gare de l’est. Our exit led us straight to our destination, the Amiot Hotel. We were getting situated and all that, and I had these lyrics in my head that I kept singing, “We want the world and we want it now.”

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Bailey discovered that Jim Morrison’s grave was close by, and I said let’s go.

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It wasn’t until we were in the cemetery that I realized I’d been singing the Doors(When the Music’s Over).

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A few others were there when we found it, the Light My Fire in red stood out on the side of the grave in front(I don’t know if it’s PC to call them ‘graves’..?) A girl asked me for a light, but I didn’t have one. Someone did, and she had this lit white candle.

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I asked if she wanted to put it on the grave, and she said “I want to, but I can’t climb over the fence.”

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“I can.” My legs are so long I hardly had to try, but I was over, and I took the candle over to his grave, but there was no where to stand it. I started gathering rocks nearby to create something, and another girl joined me and dripped some wax on the grave to help stick it there, and then another joined, and together we made it work. It was beautiful.

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The escargot surprised me with how much I actually enjoyed it. I didn’t even cringe. Maybe it was just really good escargot, but I think I prefer it to oysters and clams. The cheese was not bad either. I was watching the Denmark/Portugal match(Portugal won 3-2), like most of the people there, while the American girls sitting behind us discussed sex and orgasms loud enough for anyone in surrounding-table vicinity to clearly hear. It was as if they didn’t think anyone could understand English, but the objective was probably directed at the Frenchmen who –could- understand English, and wanted some blond loud sex girl to take home. No takers, the men just wanted to watch football. Perhaps the amount the girls inserted the word ‘like’ into a sentence made the very detailed conversation a little less explicit for someone who’s first language isn’t English. Lucky them.

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The conversation went on the entire time we were eating.

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We caught the metro back to the hotel, as it was raining. (We can see the Eiffel Tower from our room!)

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Later we went out for crepes and grog(mulled wine…not my favorite, I discovered). I had a nutella-banana crepe, naturally, and Bailey had a honey crepe(also, naturally). They were delicious, and to accompany them – football! The Netherlands/Germany match(Germany won 2-1).

Bern After Reading

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A friend I met in Death Valley two summers ago(while road-tripping along I-10 West, then back East…perhaps a different story…) met us at the station in Bern. We dropped our bags off and went out to a bar for sandwiches and beer. One thing we learned this night, was that here in Bern you don’t say “Danke,” you say “Merci” because there’s a town pretty near where they speak Francais(swirly thing below the ‘c’!). First, though, we had to get Swiss-Franks out, Euros don’t help too much here. And it’s true, what they say, about how Switzerland is expensive. It is.

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The next morning we awoke and walked all over town, from the Parliament building(great view from there) to the Barengraben(bear pit…the ‘a’ is supposed to have two little dots over it…), where we ate delicious traditional style Swiss meals(mine was like cheesy hash browns with bacon and apple-puree) and drank Marzen(again—two little dots above the ‘a’!) – beer that was sehr gute. The city Bern was actually named after the bear, as it was the first animal the people who came here saw. And now, you’ll see symbol of the bear everywhere in town.

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By request of Bailey and I, we walked by the statue of the giant eating a baby. We were curious, of course, when we read about it in this huge book of Europe Bailey’s been carrying around. It was as strange in real life(in the middle of the street) as it sounds in text.

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We went back to the apartment to catch the Greece/Czech Republic game, the Euro cup is going on right now – it’s a big deal. Czech won 2-1.

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We went out for doner(two dots above the ‘o’!) and caught some of the Poland/Russia game – the tension between the opposing fans was fierce, check it out:

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http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sport/euro2012/article-2158765/Euro-2012-UEFA-fine-Russia-FA-fans-violence-opening-match-Poland.html

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After eating, we walked to the Reitschule, an underground totally graffiti’d bar with a few other things including a women’s only club, a cinema, and a really f*ked up bar, apparently. It’s right by the train station. Reminded me of Tacheles in Berlin, but this isn’t as huge nor has it gotten as much publicity(at least its not streaming with tourists during the day time), but people live at the Reitschule, too, at the top. We got a beer from the main inside part, and then went off to a side room. The Poland/Russia match was on. By this point, I wasn’t surprised, and I was actually interested. It’s cool how the various nationalities come together in this sport, and how much belief is invested. The match ended(1-1) and we headed back.

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At this point, we realized how late we waited in finding hostels in Paris. We scrounged the internet and found nothing. It wasn’t till morning we booked our hotel for the night—finding a roof last minute sucks, we’d been spoiled by having such friends abroad to let us stay with them so much. But we got a place booked, and headed to the station, where I spent my remaining Swiss-Franks on donuts and a cheese sandwich.

I miss Berlin

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No, I’ve been having a great time catching trains and traveling to a city I’ve never been to every three days. But still, there’s something about Berlin that isn’t anywhere else. Maybe its something to do with the efficiency…East/West differences, the artistic attraction or the history the city holds. I don’t know, a “gestalt”, if you will.

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Anyway, here’s a link to the final project from my two weeks there:

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http://www.jou.ufl.edu/people/faculty/jfreeman/Berlin2012/Rachel-J-publish_to_web/index.html

Castles, Giants, and Bern– Oh my!

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Excerpt from travel journal:

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11/6/2012

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On the train from Milano to Bern, with Bailey this time!!

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We just passed a castle across a lake! Mountains all around us, going through a tunnel right now actually(so above us, too..) Its so green here.

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Loons, Bailey said. They might be here. They’re distinct — long and oily, sit very low in the water – white and black bill – very long and straight. Also, swans. They’ll be here.

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Out of the tunnel. A teal crane! Brighter than Venice canal water, for sure. And a green one! Wow, and to think all I see back home are plane old golden yellow.

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Man(another tunnel). And it smells…horrid. Bailey and I decided it’s the giant’s septic system.