When in Rome…

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We arrived in Rome Tuesday evening, met up with my best friend from the fifth grade(who I haven’t seen in a decade) and grilled burgers on her balcony reminiscing over good ole Catholic school days.

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We walked to the smallest country on Earth, where we realized we had made it to Rome in perfect time to catch papal mass, which occurs in the Vatican in front of St. Peter’s basilica every Wednesday.

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But of course, you need a ticket. And you need to get the tickets ahead of time…which we hadn’t done.

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We awoke early enough anyway, put on our dresses(shoulders covered, thighs covered—there’s a dress code), and starting headed down to the Vatican walls. Parallel to the wall, a man walked near and asked, “You girls speak English? These are for the Pope.” And in his hand were two tickets for papal mass that morning.

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We got there a little after eight, so we had pretty good seats. The Pope came gliding out a little after 10:30 waving to a mass of cheers from all over the world. He stood on this white Toyota that encircled the crowds and was surrounded by men in suits. The vehicle even made it up the steps of St. Peters, where he got off and sat in the shade.

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The following proceedings included a calling-out of the many “groups of pilgrims” who had made it here today, including a chorus from Sri Lanka, who had the reserved seats directly in front of us, and a choir from Singapore, caddy-corner to us. During the wait that morning, they sang back and forth and even joined forces for the Hallelujah when the Singapore conductor brought in the Sri Lankan choir with a wave of his hand.

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The most mass-like thing was the “Our Father” led by the Pope in Latin at the end. It was printed on the back of the ticket, so we all could join in with him. It was quite an experience.

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Following mass, we evaded the crowd and snuck down a side street for gelato and a sandwich. We then caught the A line to Termini and caught the B line to Colloseo to see the Colluseum, and the archeological site with the Forum across the street.

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Bailey and I stomped and cheered in the passageways of the Colloseum, trying to envision the energy of the people the events brought there, but not so much the gore of the games.

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That night we went out for drinks and aperitivo, appetizer-like foods brought out like pre-dinner snacks with drinks, served all over in bars in Italy. After, we went out for a cannoli – cinnamon crust, with a ricotta cream with chocolate chips and pistachio(mmm).

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The next morning, we walked to the place of chariot races and bath houses in Circus Maximus(The stop on the train says Circo Massimo).

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We stopped by the Mouth of Truth(if you’ve lied, your hand will get bitten off! Watch out for the scorpions…) and then walked across the street to the Temple of Hercules.

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We saw a fountain designed by Bernini, with the four major rivers represented, the Niles’ face turned away since they didn’t know where it started.

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We walked in the Pantheon, which was free because it’s technically a Catholic Church now, and it was great, but the number of people in that place was discomforting. It’s pretty big, but seeing the floor to take in the space could have been cool. There was an even worse problem in the Sistine Chapel, and no respect there –yes, Micheal Angelo painted it, but it is a chapel and we’re asked to keep it down and not take pictures. It was almost overwhelming to be in there with so many colors, people, and noise.

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After the Pantheon we went for the oldest gelato place in Rome, and arguably one of the most popular– Giolitti.

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We made it to the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain, and the oldest McDonald’s in Rome before heading from the Spagna stop down the line to the Vatican again, where we went in St. Peters and then the Vatican Museum. By the time we finally made it to the museum, our feet were beat.

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That night we had delicious Roman pizza at Falcini.

Quatra-lingual Conversation for Directions

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We woke up with twenty minutes to go before we were supposed to be all packed up and checked out of the hostel. Somehow the alarm didn’t go off(…it was switched to ‘off’)– oops. We were supposed to be on a train that morning to Kutna Hora, but we just caught a later one and it was all good.

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We took a bus to somewhere in Kutna Hora and walked up to one of the churches– but not the one we wanted. I went in to ask directions to Santa Barbara, the huge cathedral, and the woman told me she spoke better Spanish or German than English. We then proceeded to have a quatra-lingual conversation– Czech, German, English, and Spanish– and guess what? We made it to the Cathedral.

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After being blown away by stained glass and the incredible organ and all, we caught a bus to the Kostnice Sedlec Ossuary –aka Bone Church. Pretty weird.

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We caught a train back to Prague, and I ate traditional Svickova na Smetane: meat and potato dumplings with a nutmeg sauce– not too shabby.

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From there we attempted to find an underground bar a friend recommended– We found it, and then proceeded to wander around Prague buying different foods until our Crowns ran out.

Friends in Firenze

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After 16 hours on four different trains and a bus, we made it Florence. A train from Prague to Wien(where we didn’t get off at Meidlings like we were supposed to[by the time we got our packs on, the train was rolling again!!], so we went a stop down and caught one back and so delaying our arrival by two hours…


We took a night train that left at midnight from Prague — definitely an experience. As I generally sleep on trains, it was pretty cool to actually have a place to lay down, much less harsh on the neck. They even brought two tablespoons on coffee on a tray with bread in the morning!


When we arrived friends were awaiting us. We dropped our packs at their place(where Napoleon lived, no big deal) and went for the best pizza I’ve ever had, at Gusta Pizza. We then proceeded to walk around Florence with bottles of vino, the proper way to spend a first evening in Italy.


It was so damask in that apartment that we didn’t wake up til the afternoon the next day. We had to scurry to make it to the Uffizi, as they’re closed on Mondays, and we’re headed out again Tuesday morning. We made it, and saw the Birth of Venus, of course, but my favorite was by Piero Del Pollaiolo, the “Temperance, Faith, Charity, Hope, Justice, Prudence” piece.


Then, pasta(on a super tiny table). Ciao!

Czech, mate.

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Our group of 13 ate its last meal(and, of course, drank our last beers) together last night at Muggelsee Lake Biergarten in Friedrichshagen. We told stories, and repeatedly sang ever-changing versions of the song inspired by Lisa’s subject, Jannis — “I don’t make party everyday, I don’t make party everyday, I don’t make party everyday — only six days a week,” or something like that…Kiva and Emily’s rap/techno rendition at dinner was pretty solid.


My room at the hostel that night was full of scrambling around, no one being quite ready to leave yet, but everyone headed somewhere else by end of morning. I finished packing three hours before my rail reservations to Prague, and slept restlessly for what I’d hope to call two hours. I had to fit everything down to my back pack again for the intense traveling to come in the next four weeks.


Bailey got in the evening before in time to make reservations for Prague before heading to the Biergarten. We took the M4 to Alexanderplatz and the S75 to HBF(Haupt…something), where we took zug 171 nach Prague.


We made it just in time, and I slept the most uncomfortable sleep ever on that train. But then, we were in Praha.


We got off, made our reservations for Florence, bought a map, got some Crowns and headed off in the direction of our hostel– then we heard the music.


And there we were, swept up in some sort of parade(A welcome parade, they must’ve known I was coming), and walking among musicians and dancers and men on stilts. Thank-you, Prague.


After this, we passed a shop with a dress I want. It’s unique. It only costs 63,000 kc.


We found our hostel, no sweat(I can do the directions, it was decided Bailey’s in charge of the re-folding of the maps…), checked in and then headed off again. First — coffee and ice cream. I felt much better after this, still going off of what I’m -intensely- rounding up to three hours of sleep. I definitely never had a night where I slept as much as in the U.S. as in Berlin.. maybe its the sun-up at 4 a.m. thing, sort of inspiring.


We found a great restaurant, Svejk(–the S has a ‘v’ mixed with a ‘u’ over it…). The Kozeldark beer was awesome, I think my favorite yet. I had a Grandmother’s Kvetovany-style potato soup, and a recruiter Vanek’s steak(mmmmm!!!) This was truly glorious, especially with the second Kozeldark. But get this: roast fillet of pork, peach, cheese, and whipped cream. When I saw this on the menu I knew I had to try it, it’d by either one or the other, and it really was the better turn-out.


Bailey couldn’t quite muster herself up to eating the ham on her plate(she’s pescatarian-ish back in the States), so I willingly helped her out with that as well.


We wondered down to the river, crossed it, and wandered into the Senate gardens. The hedges are nice, the statues are gruesome, and the wall with hidden faces is a bit eerie. I can dig it.


We walked up to the castle, wandered around its grounds, came back down for a fruit chiller(I had ice cream..) and were going to head to the Torture Museum, but it was closed. I saw a beautiful four-door Porsche and took pictures before it got away. Tomorrow night we’ve got a sleep train, til then its Gothic cathedrals, human remains, torture devices, inside the castle, and underground pubs.


A third of my stay in Europe is now down. Four more weeks of swift-paced perspective advancement. Here we go.


Aufwiedersehen, Berlin!

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I’ve been a wretched blogger in Berlin, but I’ve got excuses! My MacAir didn’t hold as much as I’d have liked it to, which led to getting a hard drive to transfer my pictures on to, which led to losing all my photos pre-Soundslides project.


Alright, so, the Soundslides project was the biggest deal, so I’m grateful that evolved with pictures and sound, but all the pics I took before the day I went to Tachelles and found Txus Parras for the project, are gone. Bummer.


Except, of course, for the re-sized pics here on this website.


I have learned — keep photos on the memory card, buy new memory cards before deleting anything, because computers can screw up. Alright, got it.


The tour guide of the “discover Berlin” walking tour did NOT know what he was talking about when he said Tachelles was closed. Yeah, people are trying to shut it down and get the artists out, but they haven’t succeeded yet, I was in there last Tuesday– graffiti, artists and all.


I met Txus Parras there, in the Emma Goldman gallery, and recorded him right then and there. I got some pictures, but returned after the group dinner at the Thai restaurant Ming Quah, back by our hotel. I had to miss the first night at Dr. Pong’s, which was a shame, because it went down in legend(a phone went in the toilet and all). But I got to go the next Monday, not nearly as story-holding, but afterwards a few of us girls went to a club up the street which had a password — and we knew it, so we got in for free! The club played German pop music, then 90s music, and even –gasp– the Backstreet Boys. The club went wild.


You can imagine, it wasn’t really my scene. I mean, cool to be in a club with German folk, but perhaps not the poppy-kind, I don’t even go to those kind of clubs in the U.S. It was cool for a bit though. The trams don’t run often before the sun’s up, so I walked a bit home, but it was refreshing and an appreciated time by myself.


Wednesday we met with Christoph Niemann, then ate at this good Mexican place not far from Alexanderplatz, called Dolores.


Friday, we went to Mercedes World, where I decided I want to have my birthday party one year(they have rock climbing walls!!!) and where I also picked out a select few of my future cars, and also my next bike(only 4000 Euro, for the Mercedes bike! Aw yeah, two wheels). We then went to Lake Wannsee, just barely making the ferry in time, took the bus back and got all dolled up for the show “YMA” at Friedrichstadt-Palast.


“YMA” was great — right up my alley. Aerial silks, acrobats, trampoline, singing, dancing, men getting showers on stage, a pool of rocketts — all sorts. It was wunderbar. The singing in English wasn’t the greatest, and some of the music wasn’t either, but it was the daring acts that took the show.


Sunday, we went to the Mauerpark flea market and I bought a silk and two killer shirts. They had everything there, it was great.


Tuesday we ate at the Top of the TV Tower. I had white wine, cheese, veal, chocolate cake and ice cream. It was delicious, even the view was delectable, but I had to run to meet friends I hadn’t met yet. I ran to the hostel and checked the message saying to go to Kaffee Burger, where I went and met them, briefly before we found someplace better.


Most of the group is on a flight back to the States today. I’ve still got awhile now.